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One was delighted to discover that the South Indian blend podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves two people

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, cut into 4cm chunks
225g paneer, cut into 2cm cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two garlic cloves, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml mild oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then drain them and allow to air dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for 5 minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and reserve for later – if desired, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.